For many British residents in Palma and across Mallorca, not to mention tourists, Pizzería Giovanini, has been an extremely popular restaurant - Jason Moore and I used to regular clients often taking fellow journalists from as far away as Australia to eat there . - but, after more than three decades of uninterrupted service, Pizzería Giovanini is preparing to close its doors between October and November this year.
The news has come as a shock to the residents of Calle Apuntadors and regular customers. The reason for the closure is a significant increase in rent, which makes it impossible to continue running the business. Palma will lose another of its most iconic establishments. The news has not gone unnoticed, as over the years Giovanini has left a legacy of commitment, friendliness and quality service that has left its mark on several generations of Palma residents.
The restaurant opened its doors in 1991 and, since then, has established itself as a benchmark for both Mallorcans and tourists seeking authenticity. With its understated décor and intimate interior with just nine tables, the establishment stands out for the quality of its cuisine and its welcoming atmosphere. “It came as a surprise to me because it has been doing very well. It’s always full. In Palma, it is one of the most emblematic places and one of the few that is not focused on tourists. Tourists come, but at Giovanini you pay for what you eat, not for the location,” says Miguel Turmo, the restaurant’s owner.
Regarding the origin of the restaurant, he recalls: “We were two friends working as waiters. The season ended and we were left unemployed. The place was run by some friends, and they suggested we give it a try. After a year, my friend decided not to continue because it was very demanding. We worked from dawn to dusk for months. So I hired Leo Gámez, the chef who is still there today. Since then, except for the Covid years, it has always worked very well.”
Over time, Giovanini has managed to earn the loyalty of its customers. “I have many very loyal customers. Some have been coming since 1991, when they were 18, and now they come with their children. We have seen generations grow up here,” he says. The regular clientele even includes visitors from other islands, such as a woman from Ibiza who came every Monday after going to the doctor, attesting to the close and affectionate relationship the restaurant has with its customers.
The closure is not due to a lack of customers, but to a change in the ownership of the premises. Five years ago, the establishment was acquired by an investor who decided to increase the rent considerably. “He told me that with the new rent I wouldn’t be able to continue. And he was right: they raised it five times,” laments Turmo. He acknowledges that if he were younger or if one of his children were in the hospitality business, he might have made an effort to find another location. However, he has chosen to close with good health and peace of mind.
Added to this factor is the accumulated wear and tear of a demanding job. “There have always been two of us, and when one of us got sick, we had to close. We took it in our stride, but working every day until one in the morning for so many years takes its toll. In the end, I thought it was better to finish while I was still in good health,” he reflects.
Turmo does not hide his sadness at saying goodbye to a place closely linked to his personal life. “I was born on this street. My parents came from the mainland to work in Mallorca and met on the corner of this same street. I thought I would end my life here. It made me very angry not to be able to close when I wanted to, but then you see it differently.”
The announcement of the closure has sparked expressions of support from customers and neighbours. “People will miss it, but you can always find another place. I’ve really noticed how fond the customers are of it; some have even suggested staging a sit-in to prevent it from closing,” he smiles. The case of Giovanini reflects a trend in Palma: the disappearance of businesses with decades of history, displaced by rising rents and the pressure of the tourism model. “I’m not saying they should give me anything for free, but after almost 30 years with the same owner, always with normal increases, it was sustainable. Now many old establishments like mine are closing for the same reason,” he warns.