Karl and Monika Finken first came to Mallorca in 1987. What began as a holiday destination eventually led to their spending six months of the year in Colonia Sant Jordi and the other six back home in Mönchengladbach. Now, however, they are leaving; never to return.
"We were regular visitors in spring and winter, avoiding the summer because the heat was too much," says Karl. "But now it is a definitive goodbye, marked by disappointment and a deep melancholy. In some ways, we no longer feel welcome."
Mallorca was for years a paradise of calm. "In the hotels, they greeted us with a 'welcome home', and that’s how we truly felt. Es Trenc beach was then an almost secret haven, without sunbeds or crowds. Pure nature." The island offered them quality of life and an emotional refuge.
In 2015, they rented a small apartment. They wanted to integrate more, to experience the local daily life. "My wife is a wonderful cook, and with the markets and the quality of the fresh produce it was a delight to prepare our own meals. For us, that was paradise."
But the magic faded. Even before the pandemic, they began to notice a change in the atmosphere. The demolition of the Es Trenc beach bars in 2017 was a turning point. "Those places where we spent wonderful hours disappeared, but they had looked after the beach, kept it clean. Today it's hygienic chaos. It was a symbol of how everything was beginning to change."
They also perceive a change in the type of tourism. "Playa de Palma used to be for older people and quiet groups. Now there's only uncontrolled drunkenness," says Monika. The image of the island spread by some German media outlets doesn't help; it fuels stereotypes and a distorted view of Mallorca.
One of the factors that led to their decision to leave was the price for renewing their rental agreement. "They were asking us for double. We couldn't sustain it," explains Karl. They believe some owners want to speculate at any price. "Many have seen a gold mine. First they sold Mallorca to the highest bidder, and now they want to squeeze every square metre."
They are concerned about the situation of locals who can't afford decent housing. "We completely understand the frustration. But ordinary tourists can't be blamed for a failed housing and land-use planning policy," says Monika. "The real problem isn't us, but a policy that has left everything in the hands of the market."
They admit that the protests have deeply affected them. "At first, we weren't. But little by little, we started to feel uncomfortable," Karl confesses. But they reject the idea that tourism, including long-stay foreigners like themselves, is to blame. "The root of the problem is an incompetent policy. Nothing has been done for decades, especially housing," They also criticise the large hotel chains. "They earn billions here, but they don't participate in solutions. They don't even build housing for their employees."
They are saying goodbye without rancour. "We leave with gratitude. We knew a wonderful Mallorca." They highlight the kindness of many Mallorcans, especially in Colonia Sant Jordi. "Friendly and open-minded people on the island. We will miss them, as we will our German friends who still live here." With uncertainty about the future of the island, Monika concludes: "We're going to miss Mallorca. But life goes on. We're ready for whatever comes next."