Everyone discovers the Soller Valley in their own way. The walkers know the trails and have spent hours looking up the information available on route 221. The cyclists have many books written for them. They have the up-to-date information on the local conditions when they attempt those rides. The gourmets who dine the Soller Valley as a focus of their trip, can research everything from the location to many reviews from other diners.
A little project for the 'Lonely Planet' guidebook taught me that what readers seem to love most, is a locals view of their favourite things. I am often asked with my 'Soller Shirley' hat on, what my best things to do and places to go, are. My overview is that there is nothing like walking the streets and getting your own personal feel. One path leads to another and one chat to a stranger sends you down a different track. However, for those with limited time, I am happy to share a few of my personal places.
Go straight to the Cemetery as its number one on my list. This is a tiered park full of beautiful plants, trees, mausoleums, and modern graves. It is huge and climbs the side of the mountain. The view from the top is straight out to sea over the town of Soller. The past is keeping watch on all that goes on below. The graves tell the story, often with photographs of the people who have gone before. A close-knit community is very happy to have their families at such proximity. The Cemetery allowed me to understand and get the feel of this place.
The horseshoe bay, which is the Port of Soller, is very important to me. This is where I first came in, with an apartment almost on the beach. My footsteps take me back most days as the sea calls and I must check how it is, and what it is telling me today. The Repic end with its history of being a quarantine station and a prison in years gone by, fascinates me. The stories of the Marina hotel, Campo Sol and Es Canyis restaurants are a testament to longevity and moving with the times. Es Canyis celebrates its 70th anniversary next year.
The fisherman’s end of the Port is equally fascinating with its history of running commercial ships to France in the old days. Passengers, oranges and more citrus made regular crossings. ‘The island within an island’ slogan was developed at that time. The Soller Valley looked out to sea for its prosperity and migration in troubled times. The Soller tunnel was not built in those days.
Fornalutx calls me back very regularly as its just such a glorious location. The mountains, the oranges, the olives, the sheep, the goats, this is my concept of a beautiful rural life. Working the land and living with all the problems of climate change is not easy. But, as an escape from the urban and a connection with nature, the scenery is unsurpassed, in my view. The sunsets and the pink mountain glow are just magical.
Soller finishes my list for today. Soller is the beating heart of the Valley. The Cathedral of the mountains – St Bartholomew’s is there. (I know it’s not a Cathedral, the only one is in Palma). Locals still have this title for the majestic church at the centre of the Soller world.
Soller is the place you really must discover for yourself. Where you live in it has a huge influence on your perception. I live in L’'horta amongst the ‘Valiant Dones’ and those who saved us in the Moors and Christians battle of 1561. Even today you don’t mess with the women of L’horta. I am halfway between the Town and the Port and the only place on the tram route where the Tram always stops. Midway between the two, with one foot in each camp, describes us well.
I hope you have enjoyed my list of the ‘must see’ places if you only have limited time. This article could go on and on as there is always something to say about every inch of the Soller Valley. It’s a great excuse for many repeat visits.
Come and see us soon…