Trials and traditions in Mallorca

Beloved traditions like terrace dining & evening chats are being buried under red tape

Tourists sitting on a terrace

Tourists sitting on a terrace | Photo: MOISÉS COPA

| Palma |

Traditions form the backbone of many societies, especially small island communities which thankfully still thrive on our wonderful island of Mallorca. Sadly however, age old customs and traditional ways of life are often challenged by wasteful, bureaucratic authority who like to think of themselves as modern forward thinkers, yet more often than not, do nothing other than spoil everything for everyone! A typical example of woke warfare is the on-going ‘terrace’ debate where many cafés and eateries across the island continue to have their ‘al fresco’ dining areas cancelled for no real reason that anyone can explain! OK, I suppose in some cases, cheeky business owners take unlicensed advantage and ‘spread’ their tiny tables a little further than legally agreed; but life in the Mediterranean is all about living and relaxing outside, enjoying a dining experience in the balmy, jasmine-scented air, not about whether the local authority is collecting the appropriate tax on a rogue table or two, or whether assuring visiting pedestrians can amble in a straight line from A to B across a plaza! Not to mention the cyclists who actually weave in and out of everywhere anyway, so wouldn’t be bothered in the slightest! It’s all just superficial nonsense, and there are a lot more important issues to deal with before the appropriate authorities dig their heels in with a clean sweep to abolish a beloved Mediterranean dining experience which people, both locals and visitors alike, simply adore.

More to the point, why don’t the authorities follow through and enforce existing regulations already in place, which locals fully support, like the ban on disrespectful day-trippers wandering our streets half naked, away from the beaches, through the towns and splendid capital City of Palma! If we want to see inappropriate, unsightly flesh on display then there’s an App for that. And the police don’t seem to do anything at all to enforce a regulation which the authorities have already slid into place! They seem to be more preoccupied with tables and terraces than defiant dress-code renegades.

A recent attempt to curb another lifelong tradition on the mainland has received a massive backlash from the public, when Spanish police in the small Andalucian town of Santa Fe requested that local citizens refrain from placing chairs outside their front doors in the evenings when engaging in a Mediterranean tradition known as ‘tomando el fresco’ – a popular ritual across entire Spain as well as here in Mallorca, where neighbours and friends, usually the older generation, place chairs outside their homes and contently chat away as the evening air cools their cares away. The police recognise the tradition yet claim that public roads are regulated and asked for the chairs to be removed in the interest and respect for others along with the harmony of coexistence! What!!! People immediately took to social media offering their services to the police, ‘We need to put an end to this serious issue,’ wrote one local. ‘No more impunity for grannies enjoying the evening air. The full weight of the law should fall heavily upon them!’ Another offered their round the clock assistance: ‘If you need back-up for such a dangerous mission then I’ll be there!’

The town’s mayor, Juan Cobo blamed the backlash on sensationalistic reporting and claimed that people had misinterpreted the request. He insisted: ‘No-one is going to stop our older citizens from sitting outside enjoying the evening air.’ The request was apparently aimed at those who take advantage and cut off entire streets with chairs and tables whilst engaging in unsociable activities ie: barbeques, drinking, singing and dancing to loud music into the early hours. In fairness, some people ‘do’ abuse such situations and take selfish advantage, trying to start their own, new traditions which invariably involve drinking and a lot of raucous shouting. But then ironically isn’t that what they call a ‘fiesta’?

The main thing I suppose, is that there should always be honest respect. The culture of genuine tradition has a heritage which most local people are raised with and have grown accustomed to. Mostly they are harmless little rituals which don’t affect, harm or upset anyone. It’s usually when inconsiderate people push boundaries that the problems flag up!

Another local tradition, particularly amongst the youngster generation, both here in Mallorca and across Spain, is the botellón or ‘big bottle’, where groups congregate in public areas to meet up and drink alcohol away from the clubs and bars as a more economical way of socializing. Originally it was small groups of friends who gathered innocently, then social media got involved and ‘botellóns’ were promoted to larger audiences, quickly becoming a nuisance to both residents and police alike. Large groups would gather, get rowdy and leave behind empty bottles, cans and all their party rubbish, spoiling a small, harmless tradition for the sake of a more sensational experience, albeit one that can now be posted for the fame of a quick ‘like’ on Instagram!

I’m sure that in the sparkling future new traditions will evolve, but I doubt they will ever have the subtle innocence of those which have been around for generations. So, as the days get warmer, grab a chair in the evenings and sit outside for a chat with the neighbours. It’s a great way to brush up on your Spanish while putting the world to rights. I’d leave the bottle inside though, and keep the noise down. You don’t want to get an ASBO or be arrested for causing a public affray!

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